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Copenhagen Pub Guide
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beer bars - pubs - brewpubs
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| Introduction | |
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| Copenhagen: paradise regained? I finally made it back to Copenhagen. The changes since my last visit were a shock, but for once a pleasant one. On my last visit in the late 1990´s, there was very little decent beer, with the exception of a few locally-brewed porters. Mostly your choice was limited to Carlsberg or Tuborg pils. The
turning point came in 1998 with the foundation of Danske
Ølentusiaster , Denmark´s beer consumers´organisation. Their success
in attracting members and educating the public is an example to campaigners
everywhere. Specialist beer bars began to appear: Charlie´s, Gulliver´s,
Tatoverede Enke. At first they concentrated on imported British, Belgian
or German beer. Not surprising, as there was very little Danish beer worth
bothering with. But with consumer demand and retail outlets established,
microbreweries followed. A trickle of craft beer turned into a flood. In 2000, there were a mere 18 breweries, of which around half were controlled by Carlsberg or Royal Unibrew. In the last 7 years these have been joined by 80 new micronbreweries and brewpubs, leaving Denmark with an impressive 92 breweries for its 5 million people. That's the equivalent of 1100 breweries in the UK. Another 50 breweries are in the planning stage and there are 11 "breweries" who get their beer brewed elsewhere. The total should top 150 soon. The reaction of local monopolist Carlsberg was surprising: they started microbrewing themselves. With their Semper Ardens series, they brewed beers aimed at the new, more discerning, type of beer drinker. Perfectly logical, you might say. But take a look at similar global brewers elsewhere. You don´t see Heineken or Inbev brewing an IPA or an Imperial Barley Wine. Copenhagen pubs The city now has half a dozen top-class beer bars, four brewpubs and several excellent specialist beer shops. Even the supermarkets have a good choice of quality beers, partly courtesy of Carlsberg who import Brooklyn Brewery´s full range. Most pubs have four or five beers on draught, though these are usually just Carlsberg´s mainstream efforts. With beers from Belgium, Britain, the USA, Sweden, Germany and Norway, Copenhagen´s specialist outlets offer a breadth of choice rarely seen elsewhere. Your biggest problem is likely to be deciding where to start. I left each bar with a long list of beers I still wanted to try. Copenhagen is becoming one of Europe´s top beer-drinking destinations. I think the credit goes to Danske Ølentusiaster - a very active and well-supported (over 10,000 members) organisation. Why not go and give them some support? |
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| Copenhagen beer festival Danske Ølentusiaster organise an annual beer festival in Copenhagen. This was the last edition: Københavnske Øldage Location:Valby Hallen Date: 11th - 13th May 2007 |
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| Explanation I was inspired to write my original guide by (and used as a source) an article in "Maltesen" the magazine of Svenska Ölfrämjandet. It was written by Bo Kallmar and detailed a couple of bars selling British cask-conditioned beer in Copenhagen. Very helpfully, it gave some useful tips on where to find more information on the web about drinking in Denmark. The Nordic countries have always led the way in the information technology revolution (translation: they've all been wired up to the web for yonks). I blame those long winter nights. As you will see below, most of the pubs have their own website. The site of Danske Ølentusiaster is a mine of useful information: all the Danish breweries and the beers they brew; lists of specialist beer bars in different Danish towns. It puts the CAMRA site to shame. For a homebound researcher like myself, the computer literacy of these countries gives me easy access to a mass of accurate, up-to-date information. |
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| Copenhagen Pub Guide |
| Pubs |
| Map Index | ||
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| Alumen Bar | |
| Sølvgade 103A, 1307 Copenhagen. Tel: 3314 0099 Email info@alumen.dk http://www.alumen.dk |
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| Opening hours: Mon-Wed 16:00-24:00, Thur 16:00-02:00, Fri-Sat 14:00-04:00, Sun closed |
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| Number of draught beers: 12 | |
| Number of bottled beers: +-130 | |
| Regular draught beers: | |
| Food: Snacks. | |
| A very interesting beer selection, with a mixture of British,
Belgian and Anerican beers. The Scandinavian beers include ones from Nøgne
Ø and Ørbæk. ***** CLOSED ***** |
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| Rating: | Public transport: |
| Bryggeriet Apollo | |
| Vesterbrogade 3, 1620 Copenhagen. Tel. 33 12 33 13 Email: apollo@a-h-b.dk Homepage: www.bryggeriet.dk/apollo |
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| Opening hours: Mon-Thu 11:30-01:10, Fri-Sat 11:30-02:00, Sun & public holidays 15:00-24:00 |
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| Number of draught beers: 2 | |
| Number of bottled beers: | |
Regular draught beers:
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| Food: Snacks, meals. | |
I'm
back in known territory here. I've drunk in (and outside) the Apollo several
times. Brewpubs haven't caught on in Denmark as they have elsewhere and
this is one of a rare breed. They've got some staying power, having been
around since 1989. Admittedly, their location, adjacent to the entrance
to the Tivoli, can't have done their business any harm. No shortage of passing
trade here.It's a modern, low building which is very light inside from all the glass walls. Though the exterior is very contemporary in its design and choice of textures, inside there is considerable use of more natural materials such as exposed brickwork and, of course, the ubiquitous pine furniture. Downstairs in the cellar, is a large room fitted out with long tables and benches. Outside on the street, which happens to be one of Copenhagen's main thoroughfares, there is ample seating. Somehow, on a mild, sunny day, the egotists spitting out noise pollution from their motor vehicles just aren't as irritating as they ought to be. The copper brewing vessels are located inside the drinking areas. They are reputed to have bought their equipment from the DDR in 1989. If I correctly recall the East German way of engineering, they should last a century or two. There is only one regular brew, a reasonable, if slightly dull, beer in the pils style. The other seasonal and one-off beers have been much more interesting - a tasty stout of a very respectable strength comes to mind. The brewer has shown an admirable commitment to experimenting with different styles.. In a country where craft brewing is such a tiny section of the market, it's obviously worth checking out one of the rare examples. The company in charge here runs a similar establishment in Århus. I apologise for the low quality of the photos of this pub. I know I have decent ones somewhere, but keeping my archive in any sort of order is becoming a major problem. I have a simple proposal - extend the day to 48 hours and I'll have time enough to fulfill all my commitments. |
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| Rating: ** | Public transport: |
| BrewPub København | |
| Vestergade 29, 1456 København K. Tel.: 33 32 00 60 http://www.brewpub.dk/ |
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| Opening hours: Sun - Wed 12:00 - 24:00, Thur - Sat 12:00 - 02:00 |
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| Number of draught beers: 11 | |
| Number of bottled beers: 30 | |
Regular draught beers:
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| Food: Snacks, meals. Beer 45-50 DEK per pint. | |
A
brewpub which opened in Spring 2005. Not far from Copenhagen's main station.Even before we'd left Zum Biergarten, I suspected Mike wasn't going to be quite so happy with our next destination. He was convinced BrewPub was going to have the sort of American-influenced beers he hates. The place has a funny layout. There's no entrance on the street. You have to enter through a courtyard beer garden, down a set of stairs. We're both getting on a bit, so it took us a while to work out. Even then, we only managed it with the help of a sign with a big arrow. Fading faculties and all that. Inside it was modern and a bit trendier than my inner trendometer can bear. But we weren't going to be spending the rest of our lives there. While Mike was trying to work out which was the least American of their beers, I just ordered the strongest. At least you'll get a good whack of alcohol, whatever the failings of the beer itself. UngStrups Reserve was billed as a smoked Barley Wine of 10.3% ABV. The smoke was of the iodine type, more like an Islay whisky than a Bamberg Rauchbier. I guess they must use peated malt. I thought it was pretty good, reminiscent of Lagavullin. Mike hated it for exactly the same reason I loved it, the iodine flavour. Not that I would have drunk a second. |
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| Rating: *** | Public transport: |
| Byens Kro | |
| Møntergade 8, 1116 Copenhagen. Tel. 33 12 55 89 Fax: Homepage: www.byenskro.dk |
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| Opening hours: Mon-Sat 15:00-02:00 | |
| Number of draught beers: 3 | |
| Number of bottled beers: | |
| Regular draught beers: | |
| Food: Snacks, meals. | |
| It's an art to create a website that contains pretty much
none of the information that anyone interested in your business would want
to know. For that reason, it was a marginal decision to include this pub.
I would dearly love some more definite information about their beer selection.
With a touch of good fortune, they may even liven up their site a little. What little I know of their beer, is that it includes Tuborg, the good one from Svaneke Bryghus and Thisted Bryghus and something very new from the restarted Ørbæk Bryggeri. |
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| Rating: | Public transport: |
| Charlie's Bar | |
| Pilestræde 33, 1112 Copenhagen. Tel. 33 32 22 89 Fax: Homepage: http://www.charlies.dk/ |
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| Opening hours: Mon-Sun 12:00 - 24:00 | |
| Number of draught beers: 16 (including 6 cask ales) | |
| Number of bottled beers: | |
| Regular draught beers: | |
| Food: Snacks, meals. | |
Charlie's
Bar is on a side street of Strøget, Copenhagen's main pedestrianised shopping
street, right in the centre of town. I'm not easily moved, but the sight of a bank of 6 handpumps brought a tear to my cynical eye. Just to prove they're really used,the ceiling is covered in pump clips. It's surprisingly pub-like in feel. I say surprisingly, because few supposedly English pubs ever get vaguely close to the genuine atmosphere. That includes most contemporary British pubs. On the way to the toilets you can admire the casks, piled up in glass display cases. Shortage of space, you know. Obviously the emphasis is on British cask ales, but Danish micros also get a look in. The proprietor, Iain Russel, also owns The Wharf in Ålborg. Both have Cask Marque accreditation. |
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| Rating: ***** | Public transport: |
| Den Tatoverede Enke | |
| Baron Boltens Gaard Gothersgade 8B, 1123 Copenhagen. Tel. 33 91 88 77 Fax: Homepage: www.dentatoveredeenke.dk |
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| Opening hours: Mon 16:00-24:00, Tue-Thu 16:00-01:00, Fri-Sat 16:00-02:00, Sunday closed |
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| Number of draught beers: 16 | |
| Number of bottled beers: 65 | |
Regular draught beers:
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| Food: Snacks, meals 299 DEK for a 4-course menu, draught (Belgian) beer is 28-45 DEK for 0.25 or 0.33l. | |
This
pub is hidden away in a courtyard (Baron Boltens Gaard) which you enter
from Gothersgade 8B. That's why the street address looks so long. Inside
it pretty modern and stylish. Looks pretty modern and stylish inside. As
you can see from the draught beer list, it concentrates on Belgian beers.
Though I guess that the prices would be a bit of a shock to anyone visiting
from Belgium.As if the cosy bar wasn't enough, upstairs there's a a far larger and more elegant restaurant. It majors on beer cuisine and easily matches the standard of most similar Belgian establishments. There's a beer menu designed to complement the set menu, but it's possible to eat and drink a la carte, should you so wish. I advise anyone visiting Copenhagen to eat here at least once. The bottled beers include 13 traditional lambics! There are about another 50 Belgian beers including such good ones as: Westvleteren, Achel, Moinette and Caracole. It's a selection of beers that you would be hard pressed to find in anything but the most specialised café in Belgium. |
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| Rating: ***** | Public transport: |
| Færgekroen | |
| Vesterbrogade 3, 1630 København V (Copenhagen). Tel: 33 12 94 12 Fax: 33 93 59 77 Email: faergekroen@babel.dk http://www.faergekroen.dk/ |
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| Opening hours: Mon - Sun 12:00-19:00 | |
| Number of draught beers: 2 | |
| Number of bottled beers: | |
| Regular draught beers: | |
| Food: Snacks 50-100 DEK, meals 150-200 DEK. | |
| A new brewpub inside
Tivoli. |
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| Rating: | Public transport: |
| Hviids Vinstue | |
| Kongens Nytorv 19 kld., 1050 København K. Tel.: 33 15 10 64 Fax: 33 15 10 64 Email: hviids@mail.tele.dk http://www.hviidsvinstue.dk/ |
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| Opening hours: Sun - Thur 10:00 - 01:00, Fri -Sat 10:00 - 02:00 |
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| Number of draught beers: 2 | |
| Number of bottled beers: +-25 | |
| Regular draught beers: | |
| Food: Snacks, meals. | |
| A cellar bar which was founded in 1723. |
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| Rating: | Public transport: |
| Izbushka | |
| Rømersgade 9, 1362 København K Tel: 3312 8105 Fax: Email: info@izbushka.dk http://www.izbushka.dk |
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| Opening hours: Wed - Mon 17:00 - 22:00, Thursday closed |
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| Number of draught beers: 0 | |
| Number of bottled beers: 4 | |
| Regular draught beers: | |
| Food: Snacks 20-60 DEK, 50-180 DEK meals. Beer 29-39 DEK for 0.5l | |
| A Russian restaurant that also sells Russian drinks. It has 11 vodkas, 5 champagnes, 6 brandies. And 4 beers, from Zhiguliovskoye and Baltika. | |
| Rating: | Public transport: |
| Kareten | |
| Hollænderdybet 1, 2300 København S. Tel: 3254 9550 Fax: Email: info@kareten.dk http://www.kareten.dk/ |
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| Opening hours: Mon - Sat 17:00 - 23:00, Sun 17:00 - 22:30. |
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| Number of draught beers: 12 | |
| Number of bottled beers: 70 | |
Regular draught beers:
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| Food: Snacks 60-80 DEK, meals 130-250 DEK. | |
| A fairly posh restaurant in a nice old building. It also has 90 single malt whiskies. | |
| Rating: | Public transport: |
| McGonigle | |
| Halmtorvet 10, København 1700. Tel: 3331 2183 Fax: Email: http://www.mcgonigle.dk/ |
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| Opening hours: Sun - Wed 14:00 - 24:00, Thurs, Sat 14:00 - 02:00, Fri 11:00 - 02:00 |
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| Number of draught beers: 10 | |
| Number of bottled beers: +-100 | |
| Regular draught beers: | |
| Food: Beer 38-45 DEK for 0.5l | |
| Beer pub seeling 30 Belgian beers, 30 Danish, 48 other, mostly from the UK, Germany and the Czech Republic. | |
| Rating: | Public transport: |
| Lord Nelson | |
| Hyskenstræde 9, 1207 Copenhagen K. Tel: 33 93 93 94 www.lordnelson.dk |
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| Opening hours: Mon - Thurs 16.00 - 24.00, Fri 13.00 - 24.00, Sat 12.00 - 24.00, Sun 13.00 - 24.00 |
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| Number of draught beers: 12 (all Danish) | |
| Number of bottled beers: | |
| Regular draught beers: | |
| Food: | |
| Copenhagen's newest specialist beer bar. It features beer
from Danish micros Brøckhouse, Ørbæk, Herslev and Ølfabrikken. Not an imitation English pub!!! |
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| Rating: | Public transport: |
| Nørrebro Bryghus | |
| Ryesgade 3, 2100 Copenhagen. Tel: 3530 0530 Fax: 3530 0531 Email: info@noerrebrobryghus.dk Homepage: http://www.noerrebrobryghus.dk |
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| Opening hours: Mon-Sun 11:00-24:00 Thu - Sun 11:00-24:00 (Winter) |
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| Number of draught beers: | |
| Number of bottled beers: | |
Regular draught beers:
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| Food: Snacks, meals. Prices:Beer 55 DEK 40 cl., food 175 - 350 DEK (3 or 4 course meal) |
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| Nørrebro Bryghus is a brewpub housed in a 19th century metal
factory. It's located, as the name suggests, in the northern Copenhagen
suburb of Nørrebro. The pub is spread over two floors and there is also an outside seating area in the Summer. It sells a range of Belgian, French, German and Czech beer in addition to those brewed in-house. The selection of French Biere de Garde is a particularly unusual find in this part of the world. They've brewed beers in some interesting styles - tripel IPA, Abbey Dubbel , a framboise, a Vienna style amber lager. An ecelctic bunch, the brewers have drawn inspiration form Bohemia, Belgium, Britain and the USA. |
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| Rating: **** | Public transport: |
| Nyhavn 17 | |
| Nyhavn 17, 1051 Copenhagen. Tel. 33 12 54 19 Fax: Homepage: www.nyhavn17.dk |
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| Opening hours: Sun-Thu 10:00 - 02:00, Fri-Sat 10:00 - 03:00 |
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| Number of draught beers: | |
| Number of bottled beers:15 | |
| Regular draught beers: | |
| Food: Snacks, meals. Draught beer 38-42 DEK for 0.4l | |
| Nyhavn 17 is in a building from around 1700 that sits on the
charming little harbour in the centre of Copenhagen. It has been a pub since
1936 and would have thought ample time had elapsed to select a more imaginative
name. Someone should tell them that it's just their address. I have a vague impression of having drunk outside it, but there are so many similar pubs along the harbour that I can't be certain. But, somehow the crappy name does ring a bell. October to March it hosts a beer tasting every month. The bottles include some good Belgian jobs and Franziskaner wheat beers. |
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| Rating: | Public transport: |
| Old English Pub | |
| Vesterbrogade 28, 1620 Copenhagen. Tel. 33 32 19 21 Fax: 33 32 19 21 Email: theoldenglishpub@mail.dk Homepage: www.oldenglishpub.dk |
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| Opening hours: Mon-Thu 11:30-02:30, Fri-Sat 11:30-04:30, Sun 11:30-02:30 |
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| Number of draught beers: 11 | |
| Number of bottled beers: 15 | |
Regular draught beers:
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| Food: Snacks, meals. |
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| I'm usually reluctant to include imitation Irish/British pubs
in my guides. They can be dismal places, especially ones with names as awful
as this has. Your first impression as you enter is likely to be: is this
where all those stolen Birmingham gin palace interiors have ended up? The
quality of the carved mahogany and frosted glass is stunning. All the bits
really do come form British boozers, hopefully not looted from a boarded
up one. It doesn't do a bad job of using diverse looted elements to create a Victorian pub type atmosphere. It stretches back an awfully long way and is deceptively large. There are an impressive number of draught beers, including a name that evokes a great deal of nostalgia, but not of a pleasant kind. Double Diamond - it really still exists. Where the hell would they be brewing it? Did Coors or Interbrew get the brand? Could we give a shit? Reputedly, Double Diamond was, in the distant past, a classy premium pale ale. The keg revolution devalued it to a bad joke of a beer. Note that some of the familiar English brands are of greater strength than in the UK. The Danish draughts at least aren't the usual suspects from Carlsberg. My recommendation is go for the stout, when drinking Danish. You get a lot more alcohol for your money than with pils. Most of them, even the ones from Carlsberg, are a pretty good attempt at a bottom-fermented Baltic-style stout. Returning to the beer range, the bottled stuff is Danish and foreign, though from exactly which bit of foreign is as good your guess as mine. From the way the draught beer is referred to as "English" on their website, we can probably narrow it down to somewhere in continental Europe. It first opened in 1992 and gets extremely crowded at times. |
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| Rating: ** | Public transport: |
| Ølbaren | |
| Elmegade 2, 2200 Copenhagen. Tel: 3535 4534 Fax: Email: mail@oelbaren.dk Homepage: http://oelbaren.dk/ |
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| Opening hours: Tue,Wed, Thur and Sat 16.00 -
01.00, Fri 15.00 - 01.00, Sun and Mon closed |
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| Number of draught beers: 8 | |
| Number of bottled beers: 85 | |
Regular draught beers:
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| Food: Snacks, meals. Prices:Beer 35 - 48 DEK 50 cl. |
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| I love the red neon sign that simply says "Øl". A specialist
beer bar with some interesting beers from Danish micros on draught. In the
Nørrebro area of town. The bottled selection has beers from Belgium, Britain, Germany, and Czech Republic. |
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| Rating: | Public transport: |
| Cafè & Øl-halle 1892 (in Arbejdermuseet) | |
| Rømersgade 22, 1362 Copenhagen. Tel. 33 93 25 75 Email: am@arbejdermuseet.dk Homepage: www.arbejdermuseet.dk |
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| Opening hours: Mon-Sun 11:30 - 16:00 (closed on Mondays November - June) | |
| Number of draught beers: 1 | |
| Number of bottled beers: 10 | |
Regular draught beers:
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| Food: Snacks, meals. | |
| If I ever get to Copenhagen again, this is top of my list
of places to visit. I had no idea that such an interesting spot existed
in the city centre. This restored beerhall from the end of the 19th century
is housed in the Arbejdermuseet (Workers' Museum). The building was erected
as the Workers' Building in 1879, a sort of early socialist effort to improve
the lot of the working class. They've even got a statue of Lenin (I do hope
that it's in his renowned taxi-hailing pose). In its authentic atmosphere
you can enjoy traditional Danish food and drink a selection of foreign beer
(I'm sounding like a advert here, sorry for the inspirational breakdown). Luckily, they have a Danish beer too. Very much in the spirit of the surroundings is the "Stjerne Pilsner" (Star). A recreation of a beer from the cooperative "The Workers' Brewery Stjernen".The bottles use the original label from 1947. It's brewed by Fuglsang. There's a small selection of Belgian bottled beer including Duvel, Chimay Blue and Leffe Blonde and Brune. It's possible to hire the hall for functions. Note that the beer hall can be entered directly from the street, without visiting the museum. |
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| Rating: | Public transport: |
| Ørsted Ølbar & cafe | |
| Nørre Farimagsgade 13, 1364 København K. Tel: 3393 6575 Fax: Email: info@oerstedoelbar.dk http://oerstedoelbar.dk |
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| Opening hours: Mon - Tue 13:00 - 01:00, Wed - Thur 13:00 - 02:00, Fri - Sat 13:00 - 03:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00 |
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| Number of draught beers: 14 | |
| Number of bottled beers: 110 | |
| Regular draught beers: | |
| Food: Snacks. | |
| Specialist beer pub with stuff from Denamrk, Norway, Germany, USA, Britain and the Czech Republic. | |
| Rating: | Public transport: |
| Peder Oxes Vinkælder | |
| Gråbrødre Torv 11, 1154 Copenhagen. Tel. 33 11 00 77 Fax: 33 13 90 86 Homepage: www.pederoxe.dk |
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| Opening hours: Mon-Sun 12:00 - 01:00 | |
| Number of draught beers: 2 | |
| Number of bottled beers: | |
| Regular draught beers: | |
| Food: Snacks, meals. Prices:Beer 35 DEK 40 cl., food 80 - 250 DEK |
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| If you bothered to read the introduction, you'll have spotted
that this is somewhere in which I have actually set foot. As I recall, I
was taken there by a Danish colleague of my wife's, who was meeting all
her mates there for a booze up. I do have vague memories of a whitewashed,
ancient cellar with long tables and benches. The cellar is evidently (and
this is from there own website, so it must be true) based around the remnants
of some vanished monastary. Or perhaps I'm recalling one of those lost evenings in Prague. In the good old communist days, when a whole night on the piss cost around the same as a half of mild back home. But I diverge. I do recall having a very enjoyable time here, though I wouldn't lend too much credence to any of my physical description. I do know, that above it is the restaurant part of the business, which for some reason conjures up the word "posh" in my mind. So remember that this is the Vinkælder (wine cellar), unsurprisingly located in the cellar, that I'm talking about here.. It also sells foreign beers, but my info on what they are and where they come from is nil. Any help with this would be gratefully received. |
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| Rating: **** (because I had a good time) |
Public transport: |
| Pegasus | |
| Mysundegade 28, 1668 København V. Tel: 33 31 80 50 Email: info@pegasus-cph.dk http://www.pegasus-cph.dk/ |
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| Opening hours: Mon-Wed 17.00-23.00, Thur 17.00-01.00, Fri 17.00-02.00, Sat 17.00-02.00, Sun 17.00-23.00 |
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| Number of draught beers: 12 | |
| Number of bottled beers: +-100 | |
| Regular draught beers: | |
| Food: Snacks. | |
| Somewhere I would have walked past. It looks very much like
what it used to be - a wine bar - from the outside. A new owner has added
an impressive selection of beer. Inside is a two-room boozer with exposed brick walls. Its a lot cosier than it sounds. The friendly staff make it feel even warmer. The beers are a good mx of Belgian classics, Danish microbrewsw and a few from the other major brewing nations. |
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| Rating: **** | Public transport: |
| plan·b | |
| Frederiksborggade 48, 1360 København. Tel: 33 36 36 56 Fax: 33 36 36 57 http://www.cafeplanb.dk/ |
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| Opening hours: Mon-Fri 15:00-22:00, Sat 10:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-15:00 |
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| Number of draught beers: | |
| Number of bottled beers: 100-ish | |
| Regular draught beers: 12 | |
| Food: Snacks 45-100 DEK. Beer 30-100+ DEK for 33 cl. | |
| Seeing people sitting outside plan-b was a great relief. It
was open. Had it not been, I'd never had heard the last of it. Inside, I was slightly disappointed to see that the deli-style display cabinet had gone. I'd quite liked its inappropriateness. And the way the owner had dived into the bottles piled in it and plucked out plums. I love the idea of a pub where even the owner isn't quite sure what's in stock. The new counter and serving area looked more professional and actually designed for a pub. Like I said, not quite as charming. But undoubtedly far more practical. You have to temper sentiment with practicality. The rest looked unchanged. It's easy to imagine that the furnishings have been recycled, snatched from the street minutes before the binmen arrive. No two chairs are the same. The tiny front room was filled with diners. About half a dozen people. So we went to the tiny back room, where there was a table free. The other two were occupied by beer geeks. "I know that guy. He's at every festival I go to." said Mike pointing at a bloke in a green T-shirt. At the other table someone was reading ØLentusiasteN. We
had the table next to the decks. Record decks. Very handy for checking what's
being played. "I bet you like this" I said to Mike. An old soul album was
playing. I was right. The owner's approach to music seems very similar to
his approach to beer. Disturbingly eclectic and determinedly quirky. "My god, they've got beer from Chýne." I told Mike. How the hell did they get that? The brewery is in a village with about three houses. I exaggerate. There may be as many as six. If you include the brewery. I ordered a large Chýne 17º Polotmavé. "It's not as fresh as it was." The lanky, bearded owner very honestly told me. "Make it a small one, then." When we'd been here last - two or three years ago - Mike had been very impressed by the Slottskällans christmas beer he'd tried. He was disappointed to learn they no longer had it. I left him in discussion with the owner. I guessed he would, as usual, not be rushing into a decision on what to drink. Mike's long Q & A session with the owner taught him that they no longer had anything Norwegian or Swedish on the menu. He'd had to settle for something else. Can't remember what. Just that it cost 100 crowns. "I had been going to say you could buy me my first beer, but this was too expensive." I was puzzled. Why should I buy him a beer? "It's my birthday." He'd kept that one quiet. "I bet you can't guess who the singer is." I'd just checked the label. A version of Shakin' All Over, sung by a old female voice, was coming out of the speakers. The backing was pretty shit hot. Almost as good as the original. I knew the singer, but who was the band? "You'll never guess the singer in a million years." "Connie Francis?" "No." "Nancy Sinatra" "Miles out" We continued in this vein for a while. I gave Mike a clue. "She's better known as an actress." Mike named most of the female stars from the forties and fifties. "Older than that." This was fun. No way he was going to get it. He started on thirties film stars. "Did she make a couple of films with W.C. Fields?" Bastard. He'd guessed it. Mae West. I knew that she'd had a strange singing career towards the end of her life. Hadn't expected any of her recordings to be much cop, though. Or Mike to work it out. The owner came by to change the record. I complimented him on his choice choice of music. He showed me the cover. The band clustured around Mae looked familiar. Then again, all those moptops look the same. "Who's the band?" I asked him. "The Standells." No wonder it sounded shit hot. I thought I owned all their recordings. Evidently not. The
new record started. Plaintive, primitive, electric guitar and a whiskey-raddled
voice. Proper Capstan Full Strength blues. Howlin' Wolf. What good taste.
In pubs, I prefer silence to music I dislike. The owner was welcome to keep
spinning disks all day, as far as I was concerned. Great stuff so far and
good drinking music. As the afternoon passed, I began to worry if I had enough crowns to pay the bill. I was sticking with draught beer. That was just 45 crowns for 40cl. The bottles started around 60 crowns for 33cl and spiralled up to more than I had in my wallet. Some almost matched my mortgage. I asked for a Great Divide Barley Wine. The strongest beer on tap. My hands had been getting a bit twitchy. "You might want to try it first. Yesterday a customer told me it was their Double IPA, not the Barley Wine. Though it says Barley Wine on the keg." He poured a little into a glass. I gave it a sniff. C hops. That told me nothing. I checked the colour. In that beige area between dark amber and pale brown. Is a DIPA dark? Are American Barley Wines pale? As I couldn't decide if the beer was pale or dark, it was academic anyway. I took a sip. Bitter and alcoholic. No help there, either. "What is the difference between a DIPA and a Barley Wine?" I asked. I wasn't being a clever pants. I really did want to know. The owner didn't seem any more able to pin down the distinction than me. "Yesterday I thought it was the DIPA, but now I'm not so sure." Hang on. Valuable drinking time was being lost. What did I care which it was? "Give me a big one." It wasn't that bad. A bit more grapefruity than I would like. But I could put up with that for the alcohol burn. That and the malty goodness. I'm a right tart when it comes to beer. My head can easily be turned. Mike went to the bar and came back with an unopened bottle of Nøgne Ø Dark Horizon that the owner had fished out of the cellar. It was one of only two Norwegian beers he had. "It costs 295 crowns, but the owner said we can have a discount if we let him try it." There's an offer I've never had before. Having recently read a discussion about whether Dark Horizon was an RIS or a Barley Wine, I suspected Mike wouldn't like it. "You won't like it." I told him. We declined the kind offer. I'd decided what I was going to get Mike as a birthday beer. I hoped he'd like it. As I've already said, he's very picky. It was pretty expensive, 100 crowns, but not unreasonable for what it was. 2005 Hardy Ale. Should be safe with that. Aged and not American. He took a gulp. "That's really nice." Phew. Got something right at last. I knew he wasn't just being polite. Mike doesn't do just being polite. At 15:30 it was time for us to leave. At the bar to pay, we noticed that the owner hadn't been able to resist the Dark Horizon. "Do you want to try it?" When have I ever refused a beer? He poured us a small glass each. Powerful stuff, but pretty nice. Smooth, despite the roast and alcohol. To my surprise Mike liked it to. Maybe it being free helped. The landlord had confirmed himself as a top man in my eyes. My fears of insufficient funds to cover the bill proved unfounded. I left with 280 crowns in my pocket. Brilliant. Maybe even enough to get pissed in the airport. |
|
| Rating: ***** (Mike *******************) | Public transport: |
| Restaurant Sankt Nikolai | |
| Nikolajgade 18, 1068 København. Tel: 33 13 02 51 Email: info@sanktnikolai.dk http://www.sanktnikolai.dk/ |
|
| Opening hours: Restaurant: Tue - Sat 11:30 -
15:00; Pub: Mon - Sun 16:00 - 24:00 |
|
| Number of draught beers: 9 | |
| Number of bottled beers: | |
Regular draught beers:
|
|
| Food: Snacks, meals. Beer 55 DEK for 0.5l. | |
| A pub/restaurant just off Strøget. It operates as a restuarant
at lunchtime and as a pub in the evening. |
|
| Rating: | Public transport: |
| Cafè Sommersko | |
| Kronprinsensgade 6, 1114 Copenhagen. Tel. 33 14 81 89 Fax: Homepage: www.sommersko.dk |
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| Opening hours: Mon-Wed 08:00-24:00, Thu 08:00-01:00, Fri 08:00-02:00, Sat 09:00-02:00, Sun 10:00-24:00 |
|
| Number of draught beers: 7 | |
| Number of bottled beers: 30 | |
Regular draught beers:
|
|
| Food: Snacks, meals. | |
| This is the first pub I can remember encountering with different opening
hours for nearly every day. Either very oriented to consumer demand or just run by
awkward buggers. The interior is quite a large and spacious, modern-looking pub, with
a chrome bar and red benches along the walls. (If you want to get a clearer image
than whatever my inadequate prose can conjure up, go to their website, where you can
get a 360º degree view.) The photo above has no connection at all with Sommersko,
it's just I great beer sign I once spotted on a pub in Copenhagen (if you look very
closely you can work out that it's probably called Jernbane Cafe). The draught beer selection is only interesting if you're after local stuff or have never visited the Low Countries. Bottled they've got some obvious Czech and German beers, coupled with some others from Belgium. Nothing greatly exciting, but it sounds as if this is the sort of place you would be likely to find the more specialist and experimental beers from Carlsberg. In recent years they've done weird things like brew a Belgian style abbey dubbel. It was top-fermented and the accounts that I have read of it have been generally very positive. Note that they have two guest taps - you could strike really lucky (or be drinking some sickly påskebryg, if you get your timing wrong). If anyone out there in Denmark can correct my wild speculations please E-mail me here. I want to positively encourage you to point out exactly where, and how much, crap I am talking. |
|
| Rating: | Public transport: |
| Zum
Biergarten ***** CLOSED ***** |
|
| Axeltorv 12, 1609, Kobenhavn. Tel 33 93 90 94 info@zumbiergarten.dk http://www.zumbiergarten.dk/ |
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| Opening hours: Mon - Wed 16:00-24:00, Thur 16:00-02:00, Fri 16:00-03:00, Sat 16:00-03:00, Sun 16:00-02:00 |
|
| Number of draught beers: 8 | |
| Number of bottled beers: | |
Regular draught beers:
|
|
| Food: None. | |
Zum
Biergarten is, as the name implies, a German-inspired beer garden. Surprisingly,
it's in the middle of the city, not far from Radhusplads. It's in the courtyard of some old industrial complex (another bit is called the Pump House, so my guess is that it was a pumping station). By Bavarian beer garden standards, it's pretty small. There are probably as many seats inside as out. But we got there just after opening time and had our pick. There was Spaten Helles on tap and a variety of Belgian, Danish and American beers on draught and in bottle. We sat outside and admired the ivy-clad brick chimney backed by a clear blue sky. The day was moving back into the perfection zone. I sipped my Indslev Hvede Bock and felt a warm glow of contentment. And it wasn't just from a toileting accident, though, wanting to avoid the hideous festival toilets, I had been bursting for a wee when we arrived. A half-litre glass was a delight after the tiny 10cl measures at the festival. Even Mike was impressed and he's notoriously picky. ***** CLOSED ***** |
|
| Rating: **** | Public transport: |
|
Beer shops
|
| Ølbutikken | |
| Oehlenschlægersgade 2, 1663 København V. http://www.olbutikken.dk/ |
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| Opening hours: Wed 15:00 -19:00, Thur - Fri 14:00 -19:00, Sat 11:00 -15:00, Monday, Tuesday and Sunday closed. |
|
| Number of draught beers: 0 | |
| Number of bottled beers: +-200 | |
| Regular draught beers: | |
| Food: | |
| Beer shop with a selection of Danish, Belgian, British and
German beers. |
|
| Rating: ***** | Public transport: |
| BarleyWine | |
| Læderstræde 16, 1201 København K. Tel. 33 91 93 97 Email: bestil@barleywine www.barleywine.dk |
|
| Opening hours: Tue - Sat 12:00 - 18:00, Sunday and Monday closed. |
|
| Number of draught beers: | |
| Number of bottled beers: +-200 | |
| Regular draught beers: | |
| Food: | |
| Shop selling beer Belgium, Germany, England, and Holland,
as well as from Danish microbreweries. |
|
| Rating: | Public transport: |
| Høkeren | |
| Ravnsborggade 13, København. Tel.: 35 35 32 44 http://www.hokeren.dk/ |
|
| Opening hours: Mon 11:00 -17:30, Tue - Thur 11:00 -18:00, Fri 11:00 -19:00, Sat 10:00 -15:00, Sunday closed |
|
| Number of draught beers: | |
| Number of bottled beers: +-100 | |
| Regular draught beers: | |
| Food: | |
| Shop with a selection of beer from small Danish, British
and Belgian breweries. |
|
| Rating: | Public transport: |
| Fish & Beer | |
| Amagerbrogade 143, 2300 Copenhagen. Tel: 3255 8604 Fax: Email: nalarsen@get2net.dk http://www.fish-n-beer.dk/ |
|
| Opening hours: Mon - Thur 11:00 - 18:00, Fri 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00, Sunday closed |
|
| Number of draught beers: 0 | |
| Number of bottled beers: 300 | |
| Regular draught beers: | |
| Food: | |
| A shop which, for some bizarre reason, sells fish as well
as beer. Maybe I'm missing something. |
|
| Rating: | Public transport: |
© Ron Pattinson 2002
- 2010
All articles and photos on these pages (unless otherwise
stated) are property of Ron Pattinson. If you would like permission to reproduce
either on your own site or in a book, please contact me first.